SNM: You were born and raised in Armenia. We do not know much about fashion scene in your country. For many people, first of all, Armenia is a holiday destination mostly. Tell us more about your background and childhood. How did you get into fashion?

Mary Sukiasyan: Yes, Armenia is one of the oldest historical places, and we have daily reminders of that, such as 5500 years old shoe founded in a cave; pagan temple dating 77AD, as well Armenia was the first to adopt Christianity as a state religion in 301AD.

And it’s historical and cultural sanctuaries like these that inspired me to start my own t-shirt brand, because there’s so much to tell the world about our countries’ rich cultural and historical background. And I thought t-shirts (Shabeeg means t-shirt in Armenian) would be a great medium to remind the world about them. And yes, Armenian fashion is not active on the worlds fashion map yet and its mostly known as a holiday destination to go feel the old spirits of our sanctuaries, but I believe in its great potential and I decided to use that unique selling proposition of our country to spice up the fashion industry with it, as it already sold so well.

Well, my background and childhood would have never thought I would be in fashion one day…

Although, you know what, when I look back today, I do see the links. As a child I was exposed to a lot of Fine Art at various museums in Europe and probably that developed the taste and distinguishing of good graphical art today. I have to make sure to continue that habit with my kids as well. I have an MBA and that helps a lot as well. Visiting museums around the world and the sanctuaries in Armenia are still the main inspirational sources of my upcoming collections. When I go to the mountains, everyone knows I’m coming back with a collection. I think I learned that from Moses, (laughing), that makes our collections divine ☺

SNM: How does living in Erevan affects your personal style and work routine?

Mary Sukiasyan: It actually does. Working in fashion in Yerevan is very challenging. And there are many factors for that, the important of which is that the fashion industry is not quite developed but its developing everyday and you get to have your role in it, which is very exciting and responsible at the same time. Again, I did my research and chose the more easier path, to deal with textile, since Armenia has always been known for its textile sewing factories for the past 50 years and our women are masters in that field.

Also, I like experimenting and coming up with new and creative solutions, the main reason I couldn’t work in any other financial field is the lack of creativity, or I would say the need not to be creative in numbers. So, another field Armenia is super strong at is the Information Technologies and I felt this urge to connect those two. And I met this group of people working with AR and together we made the t-shirts talk, yes, our king and queen, illustrated on our t-shirts tell about their story when you hold the application on the illustration.

SNM: Did you know right away you were going to design clothes or were considering accessories, shoes or handbags? 

Mary Sukiasyan: As I had no background in pattern design, I chose basic t-shirts and just added cool illustrations on them, that’s where I felt in my comfort zone. It took me a whole one-year to plan, learn and enter this new for me industry. Everything had to be thoroughly thought through and professionally done according to my standards. But in time I think I grew together with the brand. First of all, the idea was much loved by my compatriots when I first launched the brand.

The professionalism that was put into it made it look like an established brand’s new line or something, because I remember a lot of rumors, common of which was that the brand was developed and run by professionals from outside Armenia. And then we developed loyal customers, who liked the themes and continued buying from us for themselves and as gifts. I highly value the relationship with our customers. When they express a wish or desire to see something in our collection, I even play out of my skin to come up with solutions to give what they need. That’s how we started a kids line, because our clients wanted to wear matching t-shirts with their kids and Shabeeg themed other pieces of clothing.

That’s how we stretched into making denim, shirts and footwear. And more still to come.. Something drastically different, and I’m very excited about learning something new. That’s all I can say for the moment.. Surprise, surprise!

SNM: How is working in fashion in Armenia is different today from European market? Is it less or more competitive?

Mary Sukiasyan: The local fashion market is quite new and small and there are few players, almost no competition. Each of us has their own niche in the market where we work. And it has its ups and downs. And it all affected Shabeeg’s strategy from day one. I had to come up with a product for a bigger market and t-shirts with Armenian heritage prints on it was targeted to the Armenian Diaspora, living all over the Planet Earth, which roughly makes about 7 million. But then in time I felt the brand is appealing not only to Armenians but other nations as well, so why not broaden and edit the target market and make it bigger.

In general, I take a scientific approach in everything I do; based on the knowledge I get through books I’ve read about branding, marketing and later fashion brand management. And I stick to the rules. Presenting collections ahead etc. But it’s a little difficult to do so locally. When buyers  see the runway photos they want to find it in stores the next day. I think as a pioneer you also take the role of educating them on how the world of fashion works and what’s right or wrong.

For me, it was the greatest pleasure to come present my collection in the fashion capital during NYFW back in 2018, then LAFW then NYFW again this year. As I have an American education (MBA from the American University of Armenia) I see myself positioning my brand in the US. Basically I’ve learned so much about that particular market. And I was extremely happy that the products I made were so much appreciated at the events that we even got great offers to sell our brand in a SoHo store in New York. Yes, dreams come true. I know it’s going to be tough to compete in such a saturated market, but it will sure be challenging and fun at the same time. I like fleeing in new uncharted territories, quite the adrenaline rush form the extreme. I realize the importance for the label. You only grow during competition. That’s when you boost your creativity to the max.

SNM: Tell us about your collection and inspirations behind the idea.

Mary Sukiasyan: My favorite part: I always get inspired from Armenian heritage stuff and I have ideas for about a couple of collections ahead. So, I was planning to do another story, but then the Armenian exhibition at the MET New York started, where there were about 140 Armenian artifacts from all over the world, notably gospels, manuscripts, Bible covers, church curtains. I decided to change my collection last minute and do it on Cilicia, an Armenian principality near the Mediterranean Sea during the Middle ages, which was famous for its manuscript schools and has given us many valuable manuscripts today. I dedicated my collection to the monks that would spend day and night at their caves to write those beautiful manuscripts that lift our souls up today. Thus the monk fashion influence on the collection. We used a lot of hoods, which came into fashion from monks and even introduced a hooded t-shirt, the statement of our collection, I believe.

Usually me research starts with thorough investigation of the subject. This time, it started in Matenadaran, the hub for ancient manuscripts, located in Yerevan, where I found many old gospels and manuscripts from the Cilician era. Then we take the information and work on, transform it, modernize it and develop a new collection.

SNM: How does your national heritage and traditional man crafting skills affect your creative process while designing the collection?

Mary Sukiasyan: Our products are 100% made in Armenia and each time I like introducing new items that indicate another strong side of our craftsmen. For example shoes, making of which is another strong side of our craftsman. And there will be so much more to come; I don’t want to open many parentheses today, but wait for it. Our first shoe was inspired by the oldest shoe found at one of the caves in Armenia, a one-piece leather slipper. I like researching the history of local craftsmanship, turns out we had so many know-hows that we’ve lost in time and I would like to revitalize them all one day and use them to show new ideas to the world.

SNM: You consider yourself as a young designer who just started her own label. What are the difficulties of today’s realities when you launch your own brand.

Mary Sukiasyan: I was going to say to be unique and not to be like any other brand, but that’s obvious if you have nothing new to tell, then you can have no place sooner or later. It’s quite hard but important to find a blue ocean and flee there. I realize I’ve got so much still to learn, it’s a constant learning pool, but that’s also super exciting. Strange as it may sound, not having the background in designing helps, because you think outside the box of the ‘rules’ and everything is possible to you.

There is so much room for growth for the label.. Sky is the limit, the most motivating of all is that our customers love the products we make and word gets out and we get more customers. I believe it’s one of the treasures of the 21st century. That’s the thing about fashion, its unpredictable and we never know where its going unless we try new things, sometimes even fail and learn on our mistakes, or even realize we have nothing to add to the industry and leave. I keep all options open, but for now I’m very excited that the idea of adding art to fashion was broadly welcomed and by many. Or maybe I was at the right time at the right place where Art become the new fashion.

SNM: Who is your customer? Can you describe your woman and her habits?

Mary Sukiasyan: It’s not only women, but men as well. It’s free spirited people, who like the catchy prints and like to wear comfortable clothes, at least on weekends. The people that appreciate Art and aesthetics and with what they cover their body is up is important to be a tiny piece of Art to spread positivity throughout the day both to them and the ones around. It’s people whose clothes speak for themselves and sometimes even scream. The most important quality that identifies my clients is one that connects with me, is that they need to be curious and constantly learn, at least the story behind the print and what they are wearing. Luckily, what I planned upfront is working and our t-shirts are conversation starters about which our multiple clients tell us constantly and we’re happy that the system we came up with is working.

SNM: What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work?

Mary Sukiasyan: At the moment so many things fascinate me, which is usual to me. I have hundreds of tabs open on my screen, which means more tabs open in my head and I maneuver them all. I have finally decided to do the hardest thing and pick up the pencil and learn to draw. I have this strange feeling inside that I can draw, I just need to pick the pencil up.. So, if t works, whichever style my soul picks to draw will define the new collection.. I’m excited to see that too..

Otherwise, I’m planning a trip to spend the summer in California. The museums and nature there will add on my inspiration. Apart from that, I’m planning to take a fashion course there and have already offers to participate at several events. If I manage to make swimwear by then, something I’m planning to do each summer for a while already, I’ll go to Miami Swim Week. I’m also planning to go to MAGIC trade show in Vegas in August and will probably organize an editor brunch in June. Busy summer. And then again NYFW in September. You’re asking what I’m fascinated by, how could I forget.. can’t wait to go to the Pacific ocean again… The first encounter was something magical.. and it sure affected on the SS20 collection I will present in September.

Photo by Emma Grigoryan

Model: Anush Hakobyan